Noble drop

When we get the opportunity to work with high-quality wine casks we try to take it, and this time we were able to source some Tokaji* wine-seasoned STR (shaved, toasted and recharred) barriques to experiment with, allowing us to present to you Batch 43: Noble drop.

First of all, let me explain the title. In Hungary, there is a family of excellent wines from the Tokaj (pronounced toe-kai) region, known in Hungarian as aszú, meaning dried or shrivelled. That’s because the grapes, mostly from the furmint stock, are affected by noble rot, a microorganism (called Botrytis cinerea if you really must know) that causes a sort of beneficial rot on the grape.
The fungus pierces the skin of grapes with tiny holes, causing grapes to lose water to evaporation, thus concentrating sugars in the grapes’ pulp as a result. Another byproduct of this process is a high production of glycerol, giving the resulting wine a more viscous, weightier mouthfeel. Moreover, flavour active compounds produced during this process generate more flavours of honey, apricot, ginger and saffron. So far so good.

This highlights one basic issue though; wine is a living liquid, and as the things living in wine can drastically alter its quality and flavours under stress, using wine casks for whisky maturation always carries a certain risk. The STR and seasoning processes certainly help to manage those risks, but they are no silver bullet. From unpleasant things like vinegar to catastrophic off notes, like vomit or ‘cork’ taint. So, getting wine casks in, especially unfortified wine casks, requires research, careful selection and a great deal of experimentation to make sure everything is done to ensure a positive outcome. But even then, there is no guarantee.

But back to our Tokaji wine barriques, as this is an example of what happens when things do go according to plan. The furmint grape from the Tokaj region is particularly interesting, and thoroughly embedded in Hungarian culture, its “nectar” even mentioned in the country’s national anthem. In addition, the wine it creates has long had an exceptional and deeply rooted reputation among wine enthusiasts, which made it all the more appealing to us. But it’s ultimately the promise of honey, apricot, ginger and saffron flavours that tipped the scales in favour of these casks.

But don’t take my word for it – here’s what our own Judit Sineger, originally from Hungary and now working with the Society’s People team, has to say: “Tokaji wine, which we refer to as aszú, is known as the ‘wine of kings and the king of wines’,” she tells me. “And here I’m quoting French king Louis XIV, who, as legend has it, graced the drink with the words ‘vinum regum, rex vinorum’ as he tasted Tokaji wine for the first time. Today, it is the perfect wine to celebrate special occasions. There is a bottle in every Hungarian family’s cabinet, received as a wedding gift, for instance, a treasure often kept for decades before it is finally savoured.”

Partially of French descent myself, Revolution or not, I wouldn’t dare to disagree with the Roi-Soleil, or Sun King as he is often referred to, where aszú is concerned, and neither could Batch 43: Noble drop. Originally matured in bourbon hogsheads, a superbly fruity Speysider was transferred to fresh Tokaji wine-seasoned STR barriques for over three years. These casks grafted on it many of the characteristic aromas this wine stock has to offer. Dessert wine, fried peach, brioche, amontillado sherry, orange blossom and tobacco complexity.

At 15 years of age, the classy nose and the golden hue of this dram make it an incredibly appealing prospect, and then the flavour follows through. The fact that 100 per cent of the whisky in this bottle has inhabited one of our aszú-seasoned barriques is testament to the restraint, balance and flavour qualities of whisky, casks and wine used in the recipe.

There is so much more to say about aszú and wine casks in general that we could fill many pages. But for now, do enjoy Batch 43: Noble drop and its balanced and indulgent wine notes. If aszú is the wine of kings, as the story goes, I’m sure we humble souls will revel in the flavours it lends our whisky.

*Note from a reformed linguist: Tokaj is the name of the region where the furmint grape is grown to make aszú (Tokaji furmint wine), while Tokaji means from the Tokaj region. Think Scotland and Scotch for a comparison