The confectioner's conundrum

A confectioner’s delight greeted the Panel – coconut chocolate bars, caramel biscuits, buttery pastries and vanilla cream spooned over brandy snaps. A shift into fruity territory brought poached pears, tropical fabric softener and fruit salad steeped in homemade sangria. The palate was rich and opulent, delivering malted chocolate, caramelised brown sugar, golden syrup, roasted nuts and a note of freshly waxed leather. Be careful when adding water, as with reduction things took a wee twist. Instant coffee granules and crushed hazelnuts emerged, and the Panel debated between the sweet and the savoury: wine gums and candied orange versus pine forest floor and parchment paper. The finish of grilled pineapple, red grapes, toasted hazelnuts and coconut left a rich character with touches of earthiness. After 12 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this to a first fill American oak oloroso hogshead for the remainder of its maturation.