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The nose wafted fresh sea breezes over shrubberies and combined green pears, macadamias, oiled cricket bats and dulce de leche on pancakes flambéed in cognac. The palate started fresh and softly citric (lemon puffs, melissa leaf, gooseberry, candied angelica), but gradually the wood dominated, making it quite a chewy dram – liquorice root, cinnamon stick and licking chilli sauce off a wooden spoon. The reduced nose found poached pears, kiwi fruits and apple sours, garden greenery, oak staves and vanilla. The palate was wonderfully tasty, suggesting toffee apples, Haribos, herbs and sorbet; then lingering cinnamon, clove, pencil shavings and hessian to finish.